From India to Wales

30Aug13

Farewell Ireland, perhaps we shall revisit one day and see the whole coastline – signing off at Arklow was a bit of a disappointment. With two fair tides and one foul we planned the 17-hour passage as a night sail so that we could see the crab pots on our departure and arrive during daylight to enter the busy Haven.

The forecast for a WSW F3-F4 arrived as promised and once the sails were set all we had to do was defeat the swell coming off the Atlantic. It was almost a perfect sail, we saved an hour on the passage time and the navigation lights of the cross traffic were easily identified in the moonless sky; the Milky Way could be seen in all its glory during our first clear night sky since May. A huge Saga ferry squeezed by us near St David's Head who's watch-leader acknowledged he had seen us after we had called him on the VHF, 'just to make sure!'. Buzzed by dolphins near St Anne's Head we then made a tired entrance into the marina following a 2-hour delay at the lock gates waiting for free-flow – we had missed the previous opening by a mere four minutes – and settled down to a bacon butty and a well deserved rest.

The River Ganges

29Aug13

Arklow. What can be said about Arklow…

A stop we chose to break up the journey south. Just over four hours away we made the best of the southbound stream and arrived early to bag a spot on the Visitors' pontoon. With shallow-depth alarms screaming as we approached we tied up and were pleased we had not decided to try the marina – probably one of the smallest with boats almost shoe-horned into their berths.

The Avoca river was a massive disgrace with the locals ready to show their disapproval as they campaigned in vane for a sewage treatment plant for the adjacent area – 'Do not fall in!', they advised us. Seeing what sort of things floated by left nothing to the imagination. The town itself was past its best with no new investment in the traditional and probably the root cause being the new shopping complex across the river sucking the life blood from the place. An overnight stay was all we needed to catch the next early tide.

The Reading Room

26Aug13

With the combination of a big Spring tide and fickle and variable winds to contend with we have been relaxing in a few days of Summer – 20+ deg C on the odd occasion, wow!

The weekend brought lots of local short-hop visitors to the marina before they disappeared as quickly as they had come with the threat of another working Monday approaching. So, avoiding the hustle and bustle we ventured off along the 5m coastal walk north to Brae casting off our rain gear as the sun finally shone for us. A very enjoyable walk but the destination of Brae had a mixed reaction from us. Everything seemed out of scale: the massive promenade in the bay; the lack of 'normal' seaside paraphernalia; the masses of people; the lack of investment; a large population but a disconnected town; strange. We returned to Greystones where our surroundings and the community were less contrary.

Today we will re-visit the best library reading room we have ever seen with a first-floor, panoramic view over the expanse of the Irish Sea looking back towards good old Blighty, there we will contemplate the weather forecast.

Please Sir…can we stay?

20Aug13

'Nope.'

Kicked out for J24 World Champs we headed south for the new marina at Greystones just South of Dublin Bay.

It was a strange day: hot and sunny start; wind building from the south; awkward 2-3m swell; wind over tide; just 15 miles to travel; sails set well but little progress, the tide our only ally; CH16 then sparked into life. A container vessel ran aground in good conditions on the approach to Dublin and a yacht we had passed travelling north called for immediate assistance – the yacht managed to sort itself out, as for the container vessel 'MV Cielo di San Francisco'…it's now under investigation?

Greystones is still in development and very shiny and new without chart presence – do not be caught out by the short finger pontoons in a F6 approach [there's hindsight] and the current lack of Wi-Fi as promised. There's disquiet in the locals about the development as the previous traditional and picturesque harbour was much loved. Its replacement is pretty sterile and as yet unfinished – the locals are still awaiting their promised health centre and the final phase of completion is not looking imminent. However, it is a welcome port of call close to Dublin though a tad on the expensive side.

Graham & Jenny go to Dublin

19Aug13

Across the Border

18Aug13

Following the forecast 'almost' gale we headed south through the remnants of the swell beating a path towards Dublin; destination Howth if we could find a berth following warnings of possible refusal.

The wind was favourable to begin with and we made the most of our early start but around half way the wind began to ease; we had to motor to make progress weaving between the trawlers. We managed to secure a berth though the place was swarming with club racers involved in the National 'J-class' series.

Dear readers we have noticed, and I'm sure you have too, that some of our blog posts have become more brief as we progress on our journey and less pictorial. A few reasons: Internet time is difficult to acquire at times and sometimes very limited, then weather acquisition becomes the priority; mainly though, the wildlife and landscape are becoming more 'familiar' as we head south and back towards mainland England; our destinations, therefore, are more of a means of making the miles through weather and tidal gates.

Howth contradicts the above comment and is a true gem on the Irish coast. Only nine miles from Dublin it is a picturesque seaside peninsula with a definite European feel; a cafe culture; a rich golfing interest; a healthy fishing port and a distinct contrast to the places visited in Northern Island. We hope to keep our precious berth for as long as possible before making room for the next racing event.

This is…is this England?

15-17Aug13

Ardglass, a small harbour and a popular staging post, it would be a shame to lose Ardglass Marina but it needs some serious investment to survive.

Places we visit are seeming to be more like England but not quite. A location dominated by the Mourne Mountains we cannot help but notice Rowan trees laden with berries; blackberries ripe for picking; Autumn is definitely showing itself; and crazy, crazy bus drivers – there were speed limits we saw them.

It was an extended stay due to the weather but time to move on and head for the 'real' Ireland.

Three-Legged Race

13-14Aug13

Carrickfergus, home of the first King of Ireland and more recently as part of the titles held by William & Kate. It has to be said that it is not the prettiest of places though the marina is well run – despite the silting robbing us of around 0.5m – and an RYA centre for SailAbility.

The wind was forecast for a good sail to Peel on the IOM but as we left the morning was still and warm. As we left the lough the wind picked up and we were off. Unfortunately, we could not quite make the course as there was a little too much east in the wind and as there was a tidal gate to meet timing was essential. As the swell built we had to reassess and we tacked back towards Ardglass. On the approach the mist closed in and we were once again thankful for our AIS system as we were suddenly surrounded by FastCat ferries and tankers sounding their approach but still unseen. The mist finally cleared and the AIS warning triangles on the screen turned into a mass of fishing boats heading in random directions. We managed to keep clear and were soon filling our reserved berth ready for a brew and a hot meal.

No Waterloo

Following some gymnastics to exit from our mooring position we started our passage south to Glenarm. Weaving our way out past the fishing boats and through the narrow entrance we buried the throttle on the engine to avoid an errant ferry and were met with another version of slack water which included an Atlantic swell forcing its way through the bay followed by the delights of 'Fair Head' with its swirling currents. Two other yachts followed us out and used us as guinea pigs for their sail plan and best course to steer. Now readers, this is confession time. It pains us to say this, but, we were overtaken by the French – our only excuse they were a lot lighter than our 10 tonnes. We managed to stay with them for a while and almost threatened a comeback but to no avail despite travelling at over 10kts (SOG); the tidal stream greatly aiding our challenge; we tried but at least we won the cricket.

It was an excellent downwind sail, quite rare for us, F5-F6 under genoa alone we were flying along. Eating up the miles we decided to pass on Glenarm, arrgh smell them cows, and make use of the following wind and the rest of the tidal stream before it turned heading for Carrickfergus on the northshore of Belfast Lough. A couple of brief rain showers later; a quick change of course to avoid a huge P&O FastCat ferry – we didn't have to but thought it wise as he was doing over 30kts and may not have seen us – we were soon tied up at the marina, kettle on, another fine day.

Southbound

10-11Aug13

Head south was the decision. We slipped our buoy at 07h00 and restrained ourselves from ramming the skipper on an adjacent boat who had started his backup generator at 21h00 promising us a good night's sleep!

Our destination Ballycastle on the north shore of Northern Ireland. A tedious journey during which the wind never delivered more than just a few knots and we had to drive across a building Atlantic swell. Crossing the busy shipping lane in the narrow channel between Ireland and Scotland we were on our guard…but for what? it was empty but for a couple of yachts heading for the same destination. The tides around Rathlin Island, just north of Ballycastle, were quite an experience even at their least dramatic during slack water – 2-3kts swirling all around us, SOG between 3 and 7 something in a matter of metres. It was quite a squeeze coming in and the Harbour Master will have his work cut out next week with 25 boats coming in for a rally.

Only 15 miles from Scotland but what a difference, steeped in history from the Vikings to Robbie Burns to Marconi with a landscape a lot kinder and more rural. Hello, Ireland.

Jura Duty

09Aug13

An uncomfortable start to the day; the turning tide setting up quite a pitching motion on the mooring buoy; the rain, hopefully, was beginning to ease. The rain did ease and so did the wind; then it was back. We ended up approaching Jura with two reefs and thinking of three as we approached the harbour. Away from land there were reasonable conditions but the Jura hills were funnelling down the wind to F6 and it made adding a backup line to our chosen mooring buoy quite a task.

We had thought we may have to leave and go elsewhere but where to? – this was supposed to be the place of shelter. Whilst we were pitching up and down and deciding on an escape plan the wind gradually eased and the day turned out quite pleasant; Beinn Shiantaidh dominating the scene with its Tobleronic, scree covered form competing only with the Jura Distillery for the number one spot.

We may be mistaken but there seems to be an early touch of Autumn around, our plans to head south may be justified.

The Missing Centimetre

08Aug13

Some patches re-glued on the dinghy, some unsuccessful autopilot investigative work swapping out the rudder transducer, and a tricky visit to the fuel pontoon before we left for Goat Island and our overnight anchorage. We bid a fond farewell to one of the Yacht Centre's riggers who was quite taken with our Crossbow 40 and to a Swede by the name of Leon Schulz who's refurbishment of a Hallberg-Rassy 46 is documented in this and next month's Yachting Monthly magazine, he has also written a very interesting book about his travels entitled 'The Missing Centimetre'.

Our 'quick' run down to our overnight anchorage was denied with a wind shift which would have made it very uncomfortable so we pressed on for a few more miles down to Crinan and picked up a mooring buoy ready for an early departure to Jura – the island looked very enticing with its Toblerone-like silhouette. It was a calm start to the night and very dark as heavy rain set in and the owls started to hoot.

Far from the madding crowd

07Aug13

Rain. Rain. Rain and more rain. An absolute deluge overnight. The bucket left on deck was overflowing and we were pondering a day of utter misery after a sleepless night listening to the water fall and puddle everywhere it could. The weather can change very quickly up here and once we had left our anchorage the sun started to shine through allowing us to cast off layer after layer of waterproofs.

With little wind forecast we had decided to make progress south and head for Ardfern Yacht Centre at the top of Loch Craignish to get water and electricity for a thorough charging of our batteries. This would be the first 'proper' stop at a pontoon with all the usual accompaniments since Kinlochbervie after Cape Wrath. Despite being a 'Yacht Centre' with a well stocked chandlery it is based in a small village far from the madding crowds – scarecrows were in abundance along the lanes following a recent Arts Festival competition.

The passage took us through the turbulent narrows at Fladda lighthouse and past the infamous Gulf of Corryvreckan, which, with little wind and slack tide appeared quite benign as we passed, from a safe distance. The landscape also changed from the dramatic highlands and foreboding mountains to a more craggy scene with more sky and generally more openness. From here on we shall be getting ready to say a fond farewell to Scotland once we have passed through the rest of the inner isles though a return at some time is probably on the cards to do more justice to the places we have skipped by. Whatever the decision, today we just enjoyed the sunshine.

Probably the best anchorage in the world.

06Aug13

Loch Aline did not induce the same reaction as Salen Bay although it was still a delightful anchorage. The loch is quite short and has more of a parkland feel to it – this was reinforced by a rib towing children at great speeds on inflatable rubber rings around the place. However, it is a good anchorage with amenities should they be needed and is a good stopover or journey breaker.

With wind on the nose Duart Castle soon greeted us with a wind shift at the point and we were able to sail all the way down to Seil and our anchorage at Puilladhrain. Regarded as 'one of the best anchorages in the world' in the guide books our early arrival increased the numbers to four; soon there were eleven of us – it was beginning to turn into a supermarket car parking scenario, the one where wherever you park your car someone always parks next to you. Fortunately, there was little wind and enough swinging room to cater for us all. Very pleasant though it was the scenery was not as dramatic as previous places we had been but well worth a visit nonetheless, a delightful experience.

Bypass

05Aug13

After a peaceful and quiet night we retraced our course back down Loch Sunart in the sunshine, past Tobermory and down the Sound of Mull with the intention of breaking our southbound journey by stopping at Loch Aline on the north or mainland side of the Sound.

The wind was in the wrong direction for both parts of the passage but at least it gave us the chance of recharging the batteries which were gradually needing a bit of a boost – the solar panel and windcharger had done an excellent job over the previous few days but were beginning to struggle with the extra cloud and drop in wind strength.

Dropping down through the Sound of Mull and we were soon experiencing a significant increase in yacht traffic, this [The Sound] being akin to a local bypass, and were expecting a crowded destination. However, once inside the loch we easily found a place to anchor at the head by the castle [Loch Aline] and our first 3G signal for an up-to-date blog since Kinlochbervie just after Cape Wrath.

Salen's Lot

04Aug13

As the weather showed signs of easing we at last we made our escape heading for Loch Sunart and Salen Bay. Just a couple of hours away, a varied course and a pleasant sail. Loch Sunart is a definite 'choice' destination, slightly out of the way but worth every effort.

We claimed the last free mooring buoy though we could have utilised space at the brand new finger pontoons looked after by Mark & Jan who are doing a marvellous job of rejuvenating the jetty www.salenjetty.co.uk.

A walk in the afternoon sunshine around the bay and then through the ancient oak woods for a view down to the head of the loch. Very secluded and some excellent holiday lets in the bay area.

Tourist trap

01-03Aug13

Thursday morning and a mooring buoy became free as some of the less 'partied-out' revellers left early. Upon retrieving the anchor we had found soft to firm grey mud explaining the good holding despite having a mere 5m of chain in contact with the bottom. Our race for a spare mooring buoy was well timed just as a squall blew in and other yachts had had the same idea as us.

Rain, rain and more rain so went the next couple of days, each dinghy journey leaving us soaking wet; everyone around us with itchy feet; a callout for the RNLI justified the staying-put regime; then a quiet night, less wind than expected; time to move on.

Tobermory or is it Ballamory?

31Jul13-01Aug13

Silly o'clock start to try and beat the seagulls to the tip – not really but we wanted to arrive at Tobermory before the charter boats arrived for the weekend change-overs. So, at 05:00 we left in the pre-dawn light trying to catch what wind was forecast before it died for the rest of the passage. As it turned out we were blessed with just enough wind and a swell that helped us along for a change. We made good progress. We managed to avoid the rain showers until we crossed north of Coll and Tiree but there was no rain of any significance to dampen our mood and we even had a brief sighting of the elephantine granite of Ben Nevis; ironically, we could still see the islands of the Outer Hebrides as we approached the north of Coll – we had not caught our first glimpse of Barra on the way out until five miles off.

Tobermory was packed. We pulled alongside the pontoons to take on water and asked the stressed-out Harbour Master why there were so many boats, so many they were rafting 3-up on mooring buoys, apparently we had arrived just as West Highland Sailing Week was in full swing; he advised us to anchor at the other side of the bay as it would be a long night of partying and mayhem!

The anchor set first time after thoroughly scanning the bay for rocks, however, the steep sides meant we could have done with the extra weight of another 25m of chain for peace of mind with the wind forecast to gradually increase – our intentions to grab a mooring buoy as soon as one became free.

Tobermory is on the island of Mull and is south of Ardnamurchan Point – the mainland's most westerly point – passing this marks the next stage of our journey, let us see what the SW of Scotland has to offer.

An Island Parish

29-30Jul13

We took the northern route out from Canna before setting a course for The Island of Barra – we particularly wanted to see this end of the Outer Hebrides since watching the BBC series 'An Island Parish'. Out of the gloom from Rhum the sun began to shine and we saw quite a selection of bird life: a white-tailed eagle soaring at the summit; rare manx shearwaters; storm petrels; and the usual guillemots, puffins, gannets, razorbills and gulls. Under full sail we made excellent progress and were soon on the approach to Castlebay to pick up a mooring buoy; these were not in as good a condition as the previous ones we had used and required a little more work to secure a safe line. With hindsight we may have been better anchoring in the more picturesque Vattersay Bay and coming over the next day to see the capital of the island as a gusty S/SW'ly was due and the overnight ferry with its humming generators.

With brief access to the Internet for a weather update, strong winds forecast, we decided to head back towards the mainland ASAP to prevent getting stuck for the next week. So, to get a quick overview of the rest of the island we took the local bus around Barra's one and only main road. Up the east side where rolling hills and sweeping bends opened up dramatic views as we followed the island's contours. A quick visit to the airport where the beach is used as a landing strip at low water and back down the western Atlantic side with its pristine white sand beaches. Chatting with the bus driver, a local of many years, he had criticism for the many TV programmes made here: although he commented that they were very good he was not so happy with some of the editing as blue sky and sunshine was not really an everyday occurence as was suggested, for our short visit we may have to disagree.

Green Velvet

27-28Jul13

Loch Nevis we left just as the morning fog began to lift. An exodus of boats, and from what we had observed from the previous night, probably a lot of sore heads. The weather was holding in contrast to the radio reports from the mainland and we headed west in the sunshine towards the Small Isles of Eigg, Rum and Canna. We had tried to obtain fuel at Mallaig but it was heaving with charter yachts and the HM advised fuel was only available on weekdays.

A brief sequence of showers accompanied us at a distance and we were able to have a pleasant sail for most of the way on the back of their progress. The Cuillin mountains of Skye looked even more spectacular from the west with the Small Isles, especially Rhum, looking like a miniature version; one of Rhum's beaches was graced with a herd of red deer relaxing on the sands, quite a bizarre spectacle.

After sourcing and curing our phantom noise at Portree we discovered another as we silenced the engine to contiue under sail. The Autopilot has decided to start what can only be described as 'hunting', very small changes in rudder angle, constantly searching for a course; we're not sure yet if it's mechanical or electrical. It can still be used for short periods but damage and undue wear and tear will probably ensue if left as it is so hand steering is on the cards from now on – any suggestions from any techies out there on a postcard please.

This season Canna has ten new mooring buoys which by the end of the day were all filled – the following day late arrivals had to anchor. It is truly a beautiful island, a green velvet landscape and a real gem; a great escape should you need some quiet time.

Smidge that Midge!

26Jul13

Kyle of Lochalsh, though probably well known by many, is not all it may be cracked up to be; we came for showers and a chandlery but neither were as they should be. The chandlery, as most seem to be, was just a DIY shop and the public showers were locked most of the time. Lots of tourists were alighting at the railway station, cameras at the ready, and were very soon looking at each other with an expression of 'Is this it?'.

After raiding the local Co-op we stayed whilst the last of the sunshine faded away before making way into the heavy rain showers south through the Sound of Sleat. As we turned we caught a glimpse of the famous Eilean Donan Castle which has adorned many a chocolate box top then continued on through the mist and drizzle. The mist grew steadily more dense as we turned into Loch Nevis; the ferries heading for Mallaig from Skye only just discernable in the poor visibility.

We intended to grab one of the mooring buoys outside 'The Old Forge' at Inverie Bay, free for patrons – the alternative would mean anchoring and the water would be too deep for our available chain length. As we approached [The Old Forge] we noticed six yachts on our tail [local charters] with one close behind and we could see some buoys were already taken, not knowing how many remained the race was on. Our opponent's downfall was his AIS signature which meant all we had to do was match his displayed speed and we would be victors: job done. The Old Forge is the mainland's remotest pub with no access roads and its only customers arrive by boat or by foot; despite this it was packed! After an excellent meal with Guinness which flowed smoothly all night we were left the task of retrieving the dinghy which we had left a little bit too low on the shoreline for the incoming tide. The midges were out in real force and so wading out and getting wet was the more favourable choice to waiting for the tide to ebb and being eaten alive.

Skyefall

24Jul13

We slipped our mooring buoy and headed out from Portree with a clean prop and the promise of some good sailing as we headed south for Kyle of Lochalsh. No such luck, the wind dropped but we were rewarded with the sight of our first sea eagle [white-tailed eagle] circling the harbour entrance performing for the tourist boats whose patrons pay a lot of money for the same priviledge.

Passing through this spectacular landscape even at our mediocre boat speed is serious retina overload; so much to take in; every few metres a new angle; new shades and textures as the light constantly changes. We sail between Raasay, with its distinctive flat-topped volcanic summit, and Scalpay and then pass under the Skye bridge finding a free space on the pontoon at Kyle to re-vittle the boat before riding the Spring streams through the narrows to the Sound of Sleat and on towards Ardnamurchan Point.

The Phantom Menace

22-23Jul13

An interesting night: when anchoring there is always a slight doubt even when you trust your anchor is well set, especially when the wind swings round 180 degrees possibly pulling the wrong way on the flukes and especially when you are surrounded on three sides by rocky reefs – reefs which look very black and daunting when seen lit only by the moon. However, the anchor held well and we left the bay mid-morning for the short hop to Portree on Skye.

Again there was only light wind to sail but we were in no rush. Under sail and with the engine off for the first time in a while we noticed a new 'knocking' noise at the stern which we concluded was something wrapped around the propeller – a new noise like this one tends to invoke a paranoid reaction and plans were set for all emergency outomes for 'what if'. We had installed a new rope cutter before leaving for such an eventuality and it seems to have achieved its purpose: forward drive was OK despite the knock and after a quick burst of reverse a thump from below then things seemed better. The knock was still there so we kept the speed down, the wind having now dropped, and headed for a mooring buoy at Portee as planned.

In all our books, guides and website descriptions many places have a chandlery though, like here, we have discovered the majority of this information to be well out of date and no such help available. We needed to either dive below ourselves or get help from someone local. Our dive/snorkel gear was none existent and was something we had failed to acquire before leaving; along the way we have tried unsuccessfully to find any such gear at all. The Harbour Master was very curt with us quoting Health & Safety and was very little help. We managed to borrow a mask and fins from an ex-navy man who owns a local B&B (Medina) after asking a local fisherman for ideas – it has to be repeated again that people up here go to great lengths to help with all sorts of problems when you have a genuine problem.

Creating a make-shift wetsuit from thermals and additional layers, the water is still very cold here, the propeller had to be inspected. Some cold-shock prevention with water down the back, a line dropped below the hull from port to starboard to pull down on and to counteract the body's natural bouyancy and it was a quick dive to inspect the situation. Most of what we had inadvertantly picked up had now gone leaving just some fishing line with a weight attached which must have been the cause of the thumping noise.

We have enjoyed being here, exploring and taking some long walks up and around this very verdant side of the country. North West Scotland is far more alive with tourism and is in total contrast with the more rugged and quieter North, the softer and kinder Orkney Islands and the remoteness of Shetland. The weather is now changing and some of the thundery showers have headed our way. Our next stop is south towards Plockton, Lochalsh and the Sound of Sleat providing our phantom noise does not return indicating something more serious. We will not know until we leave and may have to return for further remedies.

Beating the Germans to the Sun-loungers

21Jul13

Bright sunshine and another passage made in totally calm conditions. After passing through the channel between Rona and Raasay we then had to negotiate the reefs at the entrance to Acairseid Mhor, challenging but not too stressful in such benign conditions. We anchored on only the second attempt, good for us, and had managed to bag the prime spot by arriving early – all a cunning plan but successful by only a few minutes. There were already half a dozen smaller boats here along with some canoeists who had made camp at the shoreline – some foreigners but no Australians around with whom to discuss the cricket.

Once settled we rowed the dinghy the short distance to the jetty, made much longer by our poor technique: left a bit, right a bit, before walking to the top of the island for the magnificent views to Skye and the mainland.