Time Out

07Jun13

We decided to stay in Kirkwall for a rest otherwise it becomes one passage plan after another. The centre is very pleasant and geared up for the tourist industry though not in a tacky way; nothing leaves you screaming 'get me out of here' as in many other similar places back on the mainland UK. It surprises us that The Orkneys are not more popular for holidays, the weather is warmer than expected due to the Gulf Stream, closer to Scotland than we used to imagine and a delight to explore with a very interesting history. However, we did leave just before three cruise ships were due to arrive bringing passengers that would almost double the population overnight!

Taking time out we made a brief bus tour of the island to see the bits not generally accessible directly by boat including Skara Brae a 5000 year-old Neolithic settlement exposed by a massive storm towards the end of the 19th Century, very interesting but best seen on a 'quiet' day.

Tourist bit done we felt the need to be close to water again; it's strange how not being able to see the water at all times becomes uncomfortable, as though something is missing. We departed our mooring at silly o'clock to catch the tide and pass back through The String and head north east for Fair Isle; we decided more of Orkney could be explored later as we wanted to catch the currently available weather window. Word of warning to visitors on the long pontoon at Kirkwall: about half along there's a massive submerged chain [pontoon anchor] which is around rudder depth -- we had to spring off because of the wind and were lucky to see it in time.