Haggis Tweed

13Jun13

It is difficult to make a long term plan as the weather changes so quickly; time to move on.

From Symbister we decide to make progress down the western side of Shetland and head for Brae in Busta Voe, somewhere secure from the forecast strong winds. Now, Brae as the crow flies is just a few miles away but unfortunately not if you are travelling by boat as a very small strip of land at the south of Sullom Voe is in the way. So, we set course north west for the racing tides of Yell Sound and then north to round the top of the mainland. An early start revealed thick fog from the previous day's rain so back to bed to reassess the situation at a more sensible hour. A sudden wind increase awoke us and the visibility improved to a safe distance, we were back on plan. Confidence rose as the locals rushed out in their fishing boats trying to catch the same tide.

The visibility never increased over a mile or so and we missed a lot of the dramatic scenery along the way just looming headlands out from the mist. As we passed between the Point of Fethaland and the Ramna Stacks a confluence of tides was trapping masses of fish, the terns and cormorants were feeding like crazy and as we passed over in the backs of our minds we thought: whale!? Our fellow travellers on Silent Wings had already reported seeing killer whales a day or two previously.

We sailed on without incident and as the wind and sea state inceased we fell into a groove and were beating as close to wind as we could touching over 8 knots at times. Arbalest took it in her stride and her beautifully shaped hull parted the way for us with no crashing and banging as can be experienced on some of the lighter boats around.

Brae has a good breakwater and adequate depth once inside. Two 16m hammerheads are available plus two 4m single finger pontoons if the local boats are out. Again, rings rather than cleats seem to be the norm on the pontoons which can make short-handed mooring a challenge in gusty weather.

The landscape here is very 'Scottish' lowlands with a loch or two thrown in. In the centre of Brae is Frankie's Chippy, the most northerly fish and chip shop in the UK and well worth a visit -- have a portion of Haggis Tweeds!
Big seas have been reported south of here around Papa Stour [open to the Atlantic] so despite very favourable winds we have decided to delay our journey and let things calm down a little hoping the wind will turn favourable again

Inset Onset

10Jun13

We said our farewells to Fair Isle and headed north west towards Shetland. We were cautious with our planning to cross the 20 miles or so to the Shetland mainland setting our course to steer to cope with the impending spring tide...it never came. We had a fine sail and made best of the available wind to keep our course and finally reach the place on the weather map or atlas that is always drawn in an inset box. Passing 60 degrees north felt quite an achievement and it was not long before we were rafted up in Lerwick against one of the many Norwegian yachts in the area.

Following the delights of Kirkwall, Lerwick was a bit of a disappointment and we did not feel welcome as the marina had soon to be cleared awaiting the imminent arrival of cruise ships and their tenders. After a brief look around and a visit to the chandlery we quickly made plans and headed out for Symbister on Whalsay; a simpler, slower place. We were invited to stay on the hammerhead of the local boating club's pontoons and received a friendly welcome. The difference from Lerwick immediately apparent, friendly folk where everyone offers a wave of acknowledgment on passing whether on foot or just driving by. The pontoons are all privately owned, electricity is available but there are no hose pipes -- the local ferries do stop during the night and are not really a nuisance more entertainment.

The following day was pretty nasty weather-wise and so we decided to stay and get caught up on some much-needed tasks including planning for our future exit back towards Orkney and Scotland.

Time Further Out

08Jun13

Wow! The North Haven here on Fair Isle is absolutely idyllic and we feel totally privileged to be here.

F3/F4 all the way up had given us a splendid sail and apart from the uncomfortable tide rips at the south of the island just the occasional cargo ship to dodge. We moored up on the wall just in front of the ferry and were awe struck at the beauty of the place, home to a myriad of birds nestling in the rocky crevices we felt the need to whisper as we quickly tied up and silenced the engine.

The following day, accompanied by fine sunny weather, we walked the length of the island taking in the rugged beauty all around. For all you twitchers out there we've seen puffins, fulmars, oyster catchers, guillemots, black guillemots, razor bills, snipe, gannets, shags, cormorants, lapwings, great skuas, great and lesser black-backed gulls, terns a plenty (they all look the same to us) and lots of smaller stuff we can't identify. Before this trip we had never seen a puffin, here we were sat on the cliffs watching them in and out of their burrows from only 10ft away, an amazing experience. The bird sanctuary here on Fair Isle is recognised worldwide and the specialist observatory offers food and accommodation for visiting ornithologists with a very long waiting list.
Fine weather means we can clearly see Shetland and it is now calling to us. Top of a spring tide is not the ideal time to go but the fine weather should help, we may have to turn round and come back if we cannot make reasonable progress but we shall try.

Time Out

07Jun13

We decided to stay in Kirkwall for a rest otherwise it becomes one passage plan after another. The centre is very pleasant and geared up for the tourist industry though not in a tacky way; nothing leaves you screaming 'get me out of here' as in many other similar places back on the mainland UK. It surprises us that The Orkneys are not more popular for holidays, the weather is warmer than expected due to the Gulf Stream, closer to Scotland than we used to imagine and a delight to explore with a very interesting history. However, we did leave just before three cruise ships were due to arrive bringing passengers that would almost double the population overnight!

Taking time out we made a brief bus tour of the island to see the bits not generally accessible directly by boat including Skara Brae a 5000 year-old Neolithic settlement exposed by a massive storm towards the end of the 19th Century, very interesting but best seen on a 'quiet' day.

Tourist bit done we felt the need to be close to water again; it's strange how not being able to see the water at all times becomes uncomfortable, as though something is missing. We departed our mooring at silly o'clock to catch the tide and pass back through The String and head north east for Fair Isle; we decided more of Orkney could be explored later as we wanted to catch the currently available weather window. Word of warning to visitors on the long pontoon at Kirkwall: about half along there's a massive submerged chain [pontoon anchor] which is around rudder depth -- we had to spring off because of the wind and were lucky to see it in time.

A new horizon

Delaying our departure was a wise decision after reports of dense fog enroute were reported by fellow travellers on Boozeroo -- there has been a lot of mist along our route so far and it denies us views of the coastline we have come to see. Destination The Orkneys we cast off at around 08.15 and made excellent progress towards Duncansby Head (John-O'Groats). The harbour master advised us to hug the coast for the end of the south-going stream and then head over the notorious Pentland Firth at HW+1 Dover at slack water: perfect. The wind wasn't strong enough to sail safely so we motored across -- a good decision as the wind fell off half way across. Approaching the Pentland Skerries spectacular views opened up of the islands and the promise of exploration.

Duncansby Head

South Ronaldsay greeted us with a favourable wind for rounding Copinsay and with a reef in the main we pushed through the building swell. However, when we changed tack to make course for rounding Deerness the wind eased and we couldn't get enough drive to power through the swell conditions which had the occasional 3m and 4m sets. Our faithful engine came to our aid again to keep us away from a lee shore as the prospect of sailing away on the previous tack, though a credible alternative, would have taken us away from our destination by quite a way. Our intentions of anchoring in Deer Sound were now being threatened by the established swell direction; we decided to have look and although the anchorage was tenable if we needed it a comfortable night was not on the cards so we reluctantly made course for Kirkwall. The bain of our previous course [the swell] now pushed us against a strong, neap tide through the Shapinsay Sound and we managed to make reasonable progress through The String and finally into the capital of the islands, Kirkwall.

The Islands are quite different in their topography from what we have seen so far: craggy in places, devoid of trees, dramatic in evening light yet somehow soft in appearance on this eastern side; bays with settlements and ancient, castle-like retreats, a thousand books could be written.

Killing time

Wick is a busy marina and a setting-off point for the Orkneys. As with most of the marinas on the way costs have risen from the published prices making planning on a budget difficult at best. Anywhere marked as having a chandlery take with a pinch of salt as the Internet trade is killing them off just like the major supermarkets are killing off the High Street shops. One bonus we have found since entering Scotland is the availablity of haggis and black pudding in many local dishes, a welcome addition to the menu

Fog has delayed us here for at least another day which will give us chance to have a good look around maybe up to the distillery for a few samples.

Pitstop

I don't think Peterhead is on the tourist map despite the excellent marina facilities so we planned our departure for the next day, destination Wick. In boating terms you can't always guarantee your destination and the log often reads something like "Peterhead 'towards' Wick" as passage plans sometimes have to be altered for weather or other situations that may arise along the way.

Departing Peterhead, we took the recommendation from the harbour master to catch the tide right and we had a fine sail around Rattray Head -- generally, the tide accelerates in speed and strength around headlands. It was quite 'lively' at times due to the NW'ly swell with a very short period between waves but Arbalest is the kind of yacht that can take it in her stride and with some seasoned helming we slid over the worst of it. Close hauled we couldn't quite keep our course with the wind direction and decided to change tack, when we did the wind dropped again leaving us becalmed; on with the engine. If the wind had held we would have had a perfect course for an over-nighter to Kirkwall in the Orkneys but without a proper passage plan we decided not to gamble and stick with our original destination.

We arrived in Wick just after sunset tired but pleased that we had made the decision to make progress rather than wait for the never-to-arrive 'perfect day'. Again, we were entertained by a wealth of bird life on the way from puffins, guillemots, auks and the occasional skua to the now ubiquitous beady-eyed and curious fulmar. The North Sea can be very black at times but today was glorious and it never ceases to amaze how quiet it is, there is so little traffic.