A surprise welcome

We slipped lines from Eyemouth just after highwater and were shortly joined by Silent Wings. The jovial harbour master came out to give us a friendly wave as we headed into the sunshine for Arbroath. As usual the winds failed to deliver but we struggled on as long as we could trying to keep our heading. Having sailed for most of the way we had to motor for the last couple of hours to make sure we made the lock which closes three hours after high water. Silent Wings gambled on going inshore for a longer but faster route and lucked out, they beat us by a fair margin.

Two boats sailing together will never intend to race but somehow it just happens. Another boat [Samphire] had followed us out from Eyemouth taking a totally different course and we can proudly announce second place -- it was rather a tortoise and hare situation and this time the hare won. Consolation prize was being greeted by our first pod of dolphins. They surrounded the boat from all directions surfacing just a few feet away making us both feel quite emotional; they looked so much bigger than we had imagined so close up and it was a fabulous welcome to Arbroath. So, safely moored up: two 13m boats squeezed onto a 20m pontoon -- and to look forward to, the famous Arbroath Smokies.

Across the Border

A sensible breakfast start from Amble saw us over the cill and heading north for Scotland. Winds were forecast F3/F4 but behind us, a tricky sail plan as the swell was also behind and slightly across. We managed to avoid the inevitable corkscrew motion with some delicate steering and survived until the expected wind shift taking the channel inside the Farne islands at a steady 8 knots. Holy Island came and went before making our passage past Berwick and finally into Scotland. We arrived into Eyemouth 3 hours early and after stopping at the pontoons temporarily we chose to raft up against some fellow north-bound travellers [Silent Wings, who we had met earlier in Lowestoft], against the wall by the lifeboat: a night of adjusting lines in preference to sinking into a metre of mud. Next stop probably Arbroath.

Sunshine after the rain

What a difference a day makes, no more than a gentle breeze and glorious sunshine. The Germans finally managed to dry off some of their sailing gear before setting course for home whilst the Royal Blyth Yacht Club made a mass exodus towards Hartlepool for a special club event and party. We made our exit for Amble at the sensible time of 11:00 hrs with a good window for getting over the narrow cill into the marina. We tried sailing but the available wind was too flukey and we had to resort to the engine again to make any progress.

Soon we were approaching Coquet Island at the entrance to Amble and right on cue a circus of puffins took flight easily identified by their clown-like faces. Coquet Island is an RSPB bird reserve and is also well known for its Terns especially the rare Roseate Tern. Most of the area is an SSSI and quite a stark contrast to Blyth only 15 miles to the south with its prominent aluminium smelting plant.

Amble and Warkworth are well worth a visit and the marina a tranquil and quality place to stay.

Stepping up to the mark

The idea of coming to Blyth was for shelter and rest, we've not had a lot of either. The misgivings about the mooring came to fruition last night when the wind veered from NW to NE and ripped through the marina at F8/F9 with a maximum sustained gust recorded by us of 52 knots. Trying to sleep in something akin to a washing machine is not easy, however, most of the early hours were spent stood on the pontoon adjusting and nursing fenders; ironically, our little step-up fender, whose role is usually passive, served as the major work horse and with our assistance we can report no damage done -- at times the blue line down the side of the hull (see pic on previous post) was below the level of the pontoon. Other boats moored with bows-to-wind were not as secure as we had expected when the wind veered and the inner pontoons bounced in the crashing waves, their owners were unaware of the treatment they were receiving and some will have some surprise damage when they return.

Despite all of this we must be thankful. The 79th Nordseewoche was underway which is one of the major yacht racing events in Germany, hosting the only German offshore race series from Helgoland to Edinburgh. Some of the entrants were caught out and sought refuge here and in Newcastle reporting 5-6m waves and 60 knot damaging gusts; as far as we know all arrived safely.

Blyth Spirit

Along with the entertainment from the gannets and guillemots along the east coast we have had the pleasure of regular visits from solitary Fulmars which glide gracefully around the boat to check us out and cast a wary eye over us before heading on their way -- the twitchers back at Lowestoft would be very jealous.

We came here to Blyth for a couple of reasons: to make progress north and for somewhere to shelter from the impending weather, as the clanking of the halyard chorus began -- lesson to self -- whenever you're offered a mooring which you know you can't get out of as bad weather approaches take it and somehow find a way, staying beam on to the building wind with no protection adhering to the train of thought 'it can't be any worse than...' is probably not the best choice.

Blyth is a very easy-in if you've not been before. It's probably not a regular tourist destination but offers a warm welcome along with good hot showers and a new Morrisons nearby. Amble next stop when the weather breaks.

Geordie Shore

An early wake up call, through the last bridge and out of Whitby before the sunrise. Passage plan: pass through pier heads, turn left and steer NW (a bit more detailed but you get the idea). The wind, if and when it appeared, would again be on the nose and we prepared for yet another day of motoring. However, not long after sunrise the wind started to build and a favourable F3/F4 developed along with some welcome sunshine. Every scrap of canvas went up and close hauled we more or less managed to hold course with only a couple of tacks; the wind held good until we passed the Tyne entrance at Newcastle where the swell was horrendous and confused, all-in-all though an enjoyable sail.

On the Nose

An early rise and the fog had cleared with just some mist and low cloud. The forecast was for some fog patches but for now Scarborough was clear to the horizon. Creeping past the lighthouse [keep left] just after low water we just touched bottom (1.8m-2.0m) but only for a moment before making the turn to the north. There was a good breeze but as expected it was right on the nose, the swell had eased somewhat and the sea state was moderate. To sail we would have to tack which would mean arriving too late for Hartlepool so on went the engine again punching through the waves.

As we passed Robin Hood's Bay, well that's what it said on the chart, the fog started to envelope us. Visibility went from half a mile to a few boat lengths and so we implented our escape plan of turning for Whitby. Safely around the rocks we passed the haunting clang of the cardinal buoy before making the turn for the harbour sounding our fog signal to add to those of the fishing boats returning around us. We didn't have long to wait for the bridge and were soon moored up with the kettle on. Fish and chips tonight then!?

Moored further up river than the usual visitor moorings we were pleased of the neap tide as touching bottom would be a distinct possibility at springs. There is a lot of pollution at this end of the river from the surrounding industry. However, it didn't seem to bother the local gig crews of varying age groups rowing up and down [the traditional gigs were once used for towing the big tall ships up river].

The weather is still not being very kind to us so our next stop should be Blyth where we may have to hole up for a few days if the forecast is to be believed.

Rocking the Boat

Our arrival into Scarborough had the usual audience from the local Yacht Club Bar. Our appearance through the mist and gloom was likened to the Mary Celeste as there was such an eerie atmosphere that evening and not helped by our red and green navigation lights failing just as we glided past the light house into the marina -- the heavy swell that had been crashing over the bow had forced some water into the fitting breaking the circuit. Anyone wishing to visit the marina we had 5m plus at the pontoon during low water just before neaps.

The gloom grew worse the next day as we awoke to fog all around us but this soon burnt away to reveal Scarborough in all its glory, well apart from the modern planning mistake of allowing arcades to poison the vista of impressive architecture that must have truly shined in its heyday -- for those who do not go to sea the different aspect of siting land from the water offers a new perspective on what you think is familiar and easily dismissed.

Apart from resealing and checking the nav lights we took the opportunity to finish installing the new radar reflector, a task which meant that someone had to dangle 15m above the boat whilst the local speedboat took tourists out for a quick blast around the bay. Every three to four minutes he would return and rock the boat with his wake making a straight forward job take a lot longer than planned, anyway job done and another crossed off the list.

Tomorrow we head north for Hartlepool, wind on the nose again though only if the fog doesn't return to haunt us.

Grey, grey and yet more grey

With a small low pressure system promising a pleasant sail we headed for our original destination of Scarborough. After dodging the dredgers and car carriers we took our chances and crossed the shipping lane between ferries and tankers before turning north past Spurn Point; this was where the promised weather pattern was to take us gracefully up the coast. Once again the wind deserted us and we had to resort to the iron horse to make progress. The sky remained grey, mist surrounded us and the water surface was barely rippled by the available wind, it sounds tranquil but the swell from the north, sometimes 3m, made the journey uncomfortable and tiring at times.
We passed the time watching delightful displays from the Gannets and Guillemots as they passed to and fro from their nesting sites on the jagged coastal cliffs around Flamborough Head with its chalk and marl bands, closely followed by the next task of weaving between the many lobster pots approaching Filey.
Scarborough soon appeared through the evening gloom presenting an eerie view of the castle contrasted by the bright lights of Saturday night; we were glad to be arriving on a neap tide after many reports of silting in the entrance. A glassy sea made an easy mooring then a quick meal and a welcome rest.

The Prologue

Jobs done and tasks crossed off departure time had finally arrived. We had hoped to leave at the sensible time of 15:00hrs but the weather had other ideas. A southerly gale pinned us to the pontoon and whipped up the Lowestoft shallows into a frenzy which meant a readjustment of our intended passage plan to catch the next tide in the early hours of Thursday. Awaking to a flat calm the wind had deserted us yet again and thwarted our plans. However, the northerly passage up the coast in the dark was a delight in such a tranquil state and as we ticked off the various flashing buoys in the channel the sun soon climbed to greet us and bathe the east coast's finest seaside towns in glorious light.

Sheringham wind farm

Leaving Cromer behind us, the UK's current desire for wind technology was represented well by the new wind farm at Sheringham which climbed gracefully out of the morning glow; providing much needed work for the local economy despite most of the construction now being sourced from abroad. Changing course to head for Grimsby, after having to postpone our earlier intentions of heading for Scarborough, we soon crossed paths with a series of swallows heading south and looking very tired, occasionally one would stop on the boat for a brief rest before resuming its arduous flight.
The wind from the east finally arrived as forecast and combined with a building two metre swell we surfed our way to the Humber and on to a friendly greeting from the Humber Cruising Association where we were cordially invited to the bar.

Final preparations

It's May and finally it's getting warmer. The seemingly never-ending list of jobs has gradually been reduced and Arbalest is back in the water and ready to take on the new season. The real question is 'are we ready?' probably not, but hey when you gotta go you gotta go -- anything outstanding will have to be done on the way. Once the shake down runs have been done the lines will be cast off for the last time East of the Meridian and the UK coastline will become our stomping ground for the Summer.