Thursday, July 31, 2014

Deflated

So, a quick trip in the dinghy to the shops to replenish stocks...four loaded bags and the toil of carrying them back in the heat of the afternoon...what could go wrong?

A brief glimpse at our dinghy turned into a sorrowful look of a how our dinghy used to be. 20 years had finally taken their toll and all that was left was an engine clinging on for dear life to a flat lifeless pile of PVC.

We attempted a resurrection with a hastily borrowed pump but we were soon  quickly sinking. We managed to effect an escape to the safety of the nearest pontoon and grabbed the engine before it headed for the depths.

Today we headed for Brest in search of a new dinghy. If we anchor for the rest of Summer we may just get back on budget!

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Leaving L'Aber Wrac'h

29Jul14: Camaret sur Mer
Fortunately, the mooring puzzle unthreaded itself as we all wanted to depart about the same time. Unfortunately, the promised wind failed to appear and we all had to motor once again. The Chenal du Four turned into a non-event with a steady procession heading South.


We managed to sail across the Rade de Brest for the final hour for a pleasant finish. Once again rafting was the norm so we decided upon the peace of a mooring buoy, at least for one night of solitude!

Monday, July 28, 2014

First in, last out!

26Jul14: L'Aber Wrac'h

Wind on the nose…chug, chug, chug…making the most of the tide, unfortunately with a massive wind shift from forecast.

A good berth but first in, last out! Let the swell die down before going round the corner and hopefully get through the Chenal du Four before the tide turns, as long as we can get out. Overhearing the chit-chat it could well be a mass exodus heading South.

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Leading the Way

16Jul14 Roscoff

We left Tréguier at high water and this time we had time to take in the magnificent scenery, a whole new vista decorated with an abundance of sweet chestnut trees adorning the river banks. Leaving the river we set course for Bloscon on a calm sunny day. Again, we had to chug along with the engine for a few miles but soon the breeze picked up. With all sails hoisted we began to close in on other boats who were still chugging away, they soon got the message and followed our lead. Along the way we saw another Sun Fish heading East, we grabbed the camera but…

Upon arrival we were directed to the service pontoon as another event was in progress: a week of racing in small boats classed as 'Muscadet'. For the first two nights we were rafted up to three deep but it was entertaining to watch the Muscadet entrants' chaotic departure for their race starts. After the week's racing was over there appeared to have been a lot of Muscadet consumed too with winning teams partying 'til the following day!

Roscoff is a delightful place despite any preconceptions of it being just a ferry port and more pleasing by far than the usually sold Morlaix – the passage up river to Morlaix may be pleasing but the destination, disappointing unless you like viaducts.

Party Time

11Jul14 Tréguier

"When arriving at Tréguier make sure it is at slack water." Subconsciously, these words we repeated to ourselves throughout the passage.

Treguier is up-river for about 7nm and we had planned our arrival to perfection, however, best laid plans…as we began our approach – towards low water with little margin for error – we were suddenly faced with a pack of race boats coming straight towards us constantly tacking across our bows. Having weaved a route between them we found ourselves slightly late as the HM greeted us proclaiming that another few minutes and the only available berth would have been un-approachable due to the strong side currents – the fact that we ploughed a nice furrow through the mud as we made the narrow approach failed to concern him.

We had arrived at peak Springs and the 10m tidal range created a serious stream which ran through the pontoons bringing all manner of vegetation dislodged by the high water; a daily chore being to free the mounting greenery gathered around the hull; another to check the doubled mooring lines for security.

We decided to stay to experience the Bastille Day celebrations which included music in the main square including an excellent performance from 'Celkilt' performing a fine rendition of ACDC's Highway To Hell with Angus' part played on the bagpipes! and a splendid firework display launched from a barge a mere 250m away.

Monday, July 7, 2014

Once again in French waters

06Jul14 St Quay Portrieux

Amazing sunny weather, but then the deluge: 24hrs of non-stop, soaking rain. We decided to escape using the engine if necessary as the forecast wind direction was more-or-less on the nose – St Cast was definitely a no-go. However, our planned cross-tide passage to St Quay of 4.5kts with every scrap of sail up was lifted by a slight wind shift and a more than forecast F4. We managed to stay close hauled all the way and had a very pleasant and unexpected sail, our boat speed of 6-7kts, with just the one reef we had an excellent passage of just 8hrs.

Access 24hrs it was a busy place and not helped by all the events taking place including a group from Mylor near Falmouth – some of the crews were aquaintances with Rosie & Mark also owners of a Crossbow, 'Riduna' whom we met last year. St Quay itself is regarded as quite chic by the locals and is renowned for its scallop fishing.

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Jersey: Agriculture, Finance and Tourism

02Jul14 St Helier, Jersey

Short pontoons and those ridiculous mooring hoops, be warned!

Waiting to see who storms over the cill next; images of Harrods sale; how many boats? how many places are available? However, the sun continues to shine and 50 shades of grey [2013] are a distant memory – fingers crossed…

Sark in the dark

29Jun14 Sark

Greeted by dolphins and an unexpected strong tidal stream before anchoring in Derrible Bay for more rolly nights, real strap-yourself-in stuff!

Ironically, like Glastonbury – go Dolly – Sark appears to be either dust or mud. Many a recognisable face from the TV documentary and a community now uplifted by its broadcast. Sark is now recognised as a genuine 'dark sky' location and on a clear night…

More than just the Race

26Jun14 Alderney

…and the Camembert still lingers…well the smell does! But it was worth it.

A bit rolly on the mooring buoy but a rewarding visit. Westbound out through the Swinge – a real pussy cat when you get it right, get it wrong and…

A little piece of Britain…?

23Jun14 Cherbourg

Argh, the Camembert…!

Great new facilities but a crazy place: a mooring frenzy of out of control yachts following a long Channel crossing. Hide! Fender everything or suffer the consequences. Oh, and when you leave you'll realise your boat has a new coating of black, oily grime from the adjacent ferries. Nice.

Tu veux Camembert?

21Jun14 St Vaast

A gem of a place and the delights of Maison Gosselin's wine cellar! Argh, the Camembert …

Aft of the beam

20Jun14 Fécamp to St Vaast de la Hougue.

Across la Baie de Seine – 2013 Lyme Bay crossing revisited. Still going downwind: 13 hours with one to spare before the lock gate closes.

Fécamp – One step ahead of the rest…

18Jun14

One step ahead of the Dutch flotilla, can we keep it going as their route is so similar to ours?

Downwind sailing again in glorious sunshine, one tidal set and we were there – 2000nm around the UK in 2013 we sailed downwind once! Along the way we were lucky enough to see a rare sighting of an ocean sunfish – where's the camera!

Vive La France

15Jun14 Brighton to Dieppe

Sometimes you have to go where the wind takes you. Destination Fécamp became a diversion to Dieppe as the anti-cyclone over the UK kept the Northerlies blowing.

An excellent passage and everything timed as planned though while the West bound shipping lane opened up for us the East bound traffic arrived in packs of eight or more. A brief slow down to find a gap and we were soon back on track. As we approached Dieppe the NNE F6 wind made for an 'exciting entrance' – don't people pay good money to go on roller coasters! – anyway, safely in and ready for a good night's rest. Chance would be a fine thing! The scend coming in from the entrance was diabolical and reports of many a line trashed in the ensuing tidal melee as boats and pontoons danced wildly in the surge.

As we planned our escape from the cramped finger berths a flotilla of seventeen Dutch motor cruisers arrived grabbing any available space and thus preventing any hope of moving on. Fortunately, one of the nearby yachts managed to find her way out the next morning and so we pounced on the opportunity to escape – finally enroute to Fécamp; the mixed up and breaking sea at the entrance was a relief after the virtual washing machine of the marina.

Être en France est mieux de ne pas être en France – même si c'est Dieppe…

Humbled

05Jun14 Gosport

With a short passage to Gosport to replace our life raft – after it was condemned through old age – we zig-zagged our way in between the gathering of multi-national Naval vessels preparing for the D-Day commemorations.

Stepping off onto the pontoon upon our arrival we were greeted by a familiar sight: The Red Arrows were beginning their display for the crowds gathered prior to the events in Normandy. A spectacular greeting on such a fine day but we were well aware of the real reason for their presence and were humble in thought.