Tuesday, September 23, 2014

A chill in the air


23Sep14:
Following a brief sorti back to La Rochelle to visit Le Grand Pavois (boat show) -- which was not a touch on Southampton or London despite being billed as something special -- we are now back in St Denis where we shall Winter leaving the delights of Southern Biscay for next season. 

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Denis Denis


We had to plan our 'escape' from Les Minimes not only to have enough water but also to avoid the 4kt cross current steaming across our berth. It would be a short hop across to St Denis d'Oléron but we had to there before nightfall and also to allow enough water to make it over the sand bar which dried 1.5m above CD.


Enroute we managed to catch a Garfish, which we returned, and Mackerel for our supper.

We were fortunate to be met by the HM just before he finished for the day as there was a Rally taking up all the Visitor berths. He showed us to a place on Pontoon K where we had 2.7m at low water -- sorted. 

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

When's Low Water?

10Sep14:
Extreme Springs can bring very low tides.


This is one of the new boats being prepared for the boat show -- hope it's not yours!

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Hoping for a soft bottom

09Sep14:
The temperature is now more bearable with a light breeze. Our appointed berth on the Visitor's pontoon adjacent to the Capitanerie has proved more of a problem.

We were informed on arrival this was the only place we could go as space was severely restricted by the forthcoming boat show -- raft if you have to. We duly rafted and the next day acquired the adjacent pontoon berth. Port Minimes has recently been expanded and now has well over 4000 moorings. What we hadn't considered was the lack of depth in such a huge enterprise! Our Visitor pontoon had a least depth (cd) of a mere 0.8m. This is not usually such a problem with tide on top but at the same time as an approaching monster of a Spring tide, a mere 0.2m at Low water, we had a problem.

Fortunately, we pleaded our case and we were allowed to move to a slightly deeper berth on the North side of the entrance -- amazing that these berths were previously unavailable! Tonight we await low water which will equate to around 1.6m -- we will still be sitting on the bottom in a foot of mud for a short while but it could be worse. Last night a local 40 footer ran aground on the approach to his berth just across from us, a night later and he could well have toppled over.

No stress here! 

Sunday, September 7, 2014

La Rochelle

07Sep14: Little wind, 29 degrees in the shade...again. A few hours later and it's 31

Saturday, September 6, 2014

High Pressure


La Rochelle: 29 degrees C. 

Under the Bridge

We decided to leave le très chic of St Martin and make way for La Rochelle: thankfully, a short hop as the wind was less than 1kt and everything flat calm in the baking heat of midday. As we passed under the connecting bridge to the island a sigh of relief -- it doesn't matter how much clearance you have (there was plenty) there's always a slight doubt lurking!


As yet not sure if it was a good decision to leave as La Rochelle was limited in mooring space due to the imminent boat show and we still ended up rafting!

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Phasers to maximum

Despite being ultra cautious, despite the application of the mozzie screens, there's always one. After multiple checks, the 'one' must have been deploying her Klingon cloaking device prior to her feeding frenzy as we certainly suffered in the morning.

Soon forgotten, we had one of our best sails so far down to Île de Ré and into St Martin: full main, genoa and staysail the wind pretty much maintained direction and remained just under reefing territory.


Around the Port can be found the largest array of C17-C18 architecture we have seen concentrated in one place without a MacDonald's or the like cropping up to spoil the ambience.


However, there always seems to be a however, it is a very 'chic' place to visit and countless clothes shops and restaurants adorn the frontage and if is a very popular place to visit despite the official 'high season' being over. We had planned to stay but being rafted 3-deep we will probably head off to La Rochelle tomorrow where things are 'supposed' to be busy and commercial. 




Wednesday, September 3, 2014

The Vendée

31Aug14: Les Sables d'Olonne

A light breeze: down wind, wing-and-wing with a full cruising chute we arrived at the home of the Vendée Globe; site of triumphant scenes of celebration; a splendid beach and a still-thriving maritime tradition. However, staying here has had its price. Each night has been a mozzie hunt and despite apparent success, by the morning, there has been painful evidence to the contrary – lets hope it's the location and not a sign of things to come!?

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Tuna Town

28Aug14: Port Joinville, Île d'Yeu

Upon arrival we called the HM and we squeezed onto our designated finger pontoon, all 6m of it – later we realised there was plenty of space elsewhere and it would have been cheaper too – apparently, the previous week had been manic and there was no room to swing a chat.

Once again a very popular location for locals to spend their leisure time and they all seem to ride a hired bicycle. The island has a definite Mediterranean feel along with isolated beaches and magnificent cliff-side walks. Here we sampled the local tuna for which the island is famous.

Teach a man to fish…

24Aug14: Pornic

This a very pleasant place to stay and the locals are very friendly – one particular resident decided he would teach us how to fish after taking us out to buy all the right gear to catch anything from baitfish to huge tuna!

The marina is not very popular with visitors as some of the facilities are tired though they still manage to charge Peak rates – it's a little off the main path heading South and there's little room for boats over 10m except for the hammerheads – despite this we enjoyed our stay and would definitely go back.

Noticeably, Pornic is just South of The Loire and here there is a distinct change from the black, slate-like roof tiles to sandy, scalloped pan-tiles.

One to miss.

23Aug14: Pornichet

A stopover. Otherwise don't bother.

Local produce

21Aug14: Piriac sur Mer

Another short passage Piriac is an old Medieval town though now a popular tourist spot. Entry is over a cill but the digital readout confirms depth of water available – just allow a bit more for the drying approach.

So far we have enjoyed the local produce: cheese, wine, crêpes, gateaux, etc. Bretagne had one more surprise for us: a salad including some local saucisson made from various bits and pieces of offal which, to put it politely, smelt like it shouldn't be put anywhere near a plate! Piriac will not be forgotten easily.

Blue water sailing

20Aug14: Île Houat

Another short hop with a stretch of settled weather we headed for the main anchorage in the SE bay. We knew it would be crowded and it was with well over 100 boats of all types but all managing to find enough swinging room to be comfortable.

A beautiful, shallow and sandy bay with blue water more akin to the Caribbean. A quick row ashore to visit a spectacular beach and wonderful walking. We would have stayed longer but the holding was not brilliant and with a wind shift towards shore we thought it best to leave to perhaps return another day.

The ultimate Summer destination for some

19Aug14: Golfe du Morbihan

In the heart of Quiberon Bay the Golfe du Morbihan can be seen as a pilgrimage for visiting Summer boats. Despite the swift and powerful currents it is used as a playground by the locals and visitors alike. Once again, a very popular destination in season for all types of holiday-goers.

We zig-zagged our way in avoiding boats coming from all directions including the busy vedettes and made way for Port Blanc. There, we picked up one of the white mooring buoys just out of the main stream. There was no charge for our overnight stay and no charge for the HM water taxi – something we could learn back home where it can be £2 per person per trip to travel 50m! The French get the punters in to spend their money, we on the other hand make it too expensive to even consider a trip out in the first place.

Quiberon Bay

15Aug14: La Trinité sur Mer

Rafted on the end of a pontoon exposed to the incoming swell we made the short hop to La Trinité home to some of France's greatest yachtsmen.

Roller Coaster

13Aug14: Sauzon to Port Haliguen

Sauzon, a beautiful place but visit out of season. We had to escape at the earliest opportunity. The next morning we headed for the Quiberon peninsula through the Teignhouse passage. This passage is over a shallow reef, clearly buoyed but not to be attempted in wind-over-tide conditions. We timed our approach for slack water and then dealt with the F6 Westerly which which was taking us across. Exciting. Surfing down a short, steep 6m swell Arbalest took it in her stride unlike some boats designed more for day sailing.

Once again the port was extremely busy with boats queuing and circling before being directed to raft in every available space.

Avoiding the crowds!?

12Aug14: Loctudy to Sauzon at Belle Île

July and August is very expensive in this area but Loctudy offered an excellent rate for a weeks's stay – all we had to do was squeeze our way out from the tiny gap between opposing finger pontoons! Fortunately, the lack of early morning wind was following form and we slipped out without incident. On a different and slightly more bizarre and diverse subject a line can be drawn here in our progress South marking the start of mixed ablutions!?

Wind strength gradually built giving us a lively sail to the island. Upon arrival, anchoring was not an option and the alternative choice of a mooring buoy in the height of the season, a challenge. We were lead by the HM between masses of charter boats and locals threading a narrow, weaving line until we picked up for and aft mooring buoys already occupied by six other boats – sometimes idyllic island spots can be a bit too popular!

Sauveteurs

04Aug14 St Evette to Loctudy

Our stay in St Evette coincided with the local SNSM (RNLI) having a very well attended fund-raising event: lots of local food and drink; model life boats; a display of swimming rescue dogs; helicopter exercises; and above all great weather.

However, time to move on and we set course for Loctudy. Here we sat out the remnants of Hurricane Bertha giving us time to sample the excellent langoustine and explore the area including Quimper then an enlightening visit to Guilvinec and the fish auction.

Saturday, August 2, 2014

Victory

02Aug14: St Evette

Following a brief return to Camaret from Brest with our replacement ex-demo dinghy, we prepared our passage through the notorious Raz de Sein.


As often is the case the wind was not as forecast and the NW'ly was actually a SW'ly. We managed to just hold our course and keep to our timings and despite crew members keeping a sharp lookout all was benign. 

St Evette our destination and another mooring buoy -- this one was hard fought for as the masses arrived but the crew were on form and we nailed it first time leaving a particularly 'aggressive' French boat searching an alternative.

Thursday, July 31, 2014

Deflated

So, a quick trip in the dinghy to the shops to replenish stocks...four loaded bags and the toil of carrying them back in the heat of the afternoon...what could go wrong?

A brief glimpse at our dinghy turned into a sorrowful look of a how our dinghy used to be. 20 years had finally taken their toll and all that was left was an engine clinging on for dear life to a flat lifeless pile of PVC.

We attempted a resurrection with a hastily borrowed pump but we were soon  quickly sinking. We managed to effect an escape to the safety of the nearest pontoon and grabbed the engine before it headed for the depths.

Today we headed for Brest in search of a new dinghy. If we anchor for the rest of Summer we may just get back on budget!

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Leaving L'Aber Wrac'h

29Jul14: Camaret sur Mer
Fortunately, the mooring puzzle unthreaded itself as we all wanted to depart about the same time. Unfortunately, the promised wind failed to appear and we all had to motor once again. The Chenal du Four turned into a non-event with a steady procession heading South.


We managed to sail across the Rade de Brest for the final hour for a pleasant finish. Once again rafting was the norm so we decided upon the peace of a mooring buoy, at least for one night of solitude!

Monday, July 28, 2014

First in, last out!

26Jul14: L'Aber Wrac'h

Wind on the nose…chug, chug, chug…making the most of the tide, unfortunately with a massive wind shift from forecast.

A good berth but first in, last out! Let the swell die down before going round the corner and hopefully get through the Chenal du Four before the tide turns, as long as we can get out. Overhearing the chit-chat it could well be a mass exodus heading South.

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Leading the Way

16Jul14 Roscoff

We left Tréguier at high water and this time we had time to take in the magnificent scenery, a whole new vista decorated with an abundance of sweet chestnut trees adorning the river banks. Leaving the river we set course for Bloscon on a calm sunny day. Again, we had to chug along with the engine for a few miles but soon the breeze picked up. With all sails hoisted we began to close in on other boats who were still chugging away, they soon got the message and followed our lead. Along the way we saw another Sun Fish heading East, we grabbed the camera but…

Upon arrival we were directed to the service pontoon as another event was in progress: a week of racing in small boats classed as 'Muscadet'. For the first two nights we were rafted up to three deep but it was entertaining to watch the Muscadet entrants' chaotic departure for their race starts. After the week's racing was over there appeared to have been a lot of Muscadet consumed too with winning teams partying 'til the following day!

Roscoff is a delightful place despite any preconceptions of it being just a ferry port and more pleasing by far than the usually sold Morlaix – the passage up river to Morlaix may be pleasing but the destination, disappointing unless you like viaducts.

Party Time

11Jul14 Tréguier

"When arriving at Tréguier make sure it is at slack water." Subconsciously, these words we repeated to ourselves throughout the passage.

Treguier is up-river for about 7nm and we had planned our arrival to perfection, however, best laid plans…as we began our approach – towards low water with little margin for error – we were suddenly faced with a pack of race boats coming straight towards us constantly tacking across our bows. Having weaved a route between them we found ourselves slightly late as the HM greeted us proclaiming that another few minutes and the only available berth would have been un-approachable due to the strong side currents – the fact that we ploughed a nice furrow through the mud as we made the narrow approach failed to concern him.

We had arrived at peak Springs and the 10m tidal range created a serious stream which ran through the pontoons bringing all manner of vegetation dislodged by the high water; a daily chore being to free the mounting greenery gathered around the hull; another to check the doubled mooring lines for security.

We decided to stay to experience the Bastille Day celebrations which included music in the main square including an excellent performance from 'Celkilt' performing a fine rendition of ACDC's Highway To Hell with Angus' part played on the bagpipes! and a splendid firework display launched from a barge a mere 250m away.

Monday, July 7, 2014

Once again in French waters

06Jul14 St Quay Portrieux

Amazing sunny weather, but then the deluge: 24hrs of non-stop, soaking rain. We decided to escape using the engine if necessary as the forecast wind direction was more-or-less on the nose – St Cast was definitely a no-go. However, our planned cross-tide passage to St Quay of 4.5kts with every scrap of sail up was lifted by a slight wind shift and a more than forecast F4. We managed to stay close hauled all the way and had a very pleasant and unexpected sail, our boat speed of 6-7kts, with just the one reef we had an excellent passage of just 8hrs.

Access 24hrs it was a busy place and not helped by all the events taking place including a group from Mylor near Falmouth – some of the crews were aquaintances with Rosie & Mark also owners of a Crossbow, 'Riduna' whom we met last year. St Quay itself is regarded as quite chic by the locals and is renowned for its scallop fishing.

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Jersey: Agriculture, Finance and Tourism

02Jul14 St Helier, Jersey

Short pontoons and those ridiculous mooring hoops, be warned!

Waiting to see who storms over the cill next; images of Harrods sale; how many boats? how many places are available? However, the sun continues to shine and 50 shades of grey [2013] are a distant memory – fingers crossed…

Sark in the dark

29Jun14 Sark

Greeted by dolphins and an unexpected strong tidal stream before anchoring in Derrible Bay for more rolly nights, real strap-yourself-in stuff!

Ironically, like Glastonbury – go Dolly – Sark appears to be either dust or mud. Many a recognisable face from the TV documentary and a community now uplifted by its broadcast. Sark is now recognised as a genuine 'dark sky' location and on a clear night…

More than just the Race

26Jun14 Alderney

…and the Camembert still lingers…well the smell does! But it was worth it.

A bit rolly on the mooring buoy but a rewarding visit. Westbound out through the Swinge – a real pussy cat when you get it right, get it wrong and…

A little piece of Britain…?

23Jun14 Cherbourg

Argh, the Camembert…!

Great new facilities but a crazy place: a mooring frenzy of out of control yachts following a long Channel crossing. Hide! Fender everything or suffer the consequences. Oh, and when you leave you'll realise your boat has a new coating of black, oily grime from the adjacent ferries. Nice.

Tu veux Camembert?

21Jun14 St Vaast

A gem of a place and the delights of Maison Gosselin's wine cellar! Argh, the Camembert …

Aft of the beam

20Jun14 Fécamp to St Vaast de la Hougue.

Across la Baie de Seine – 2013 Lyme Bay crossing revisited. Still going downwind: 13 hours with one to spare before the lock gate closes.

Fécamp – One step ahead of the rest…

18Jun14

One step ahead of the Dutch flotilla, can we keep it going as their route is so similar to ours?

Downwind sailing again in glorious sunshine, one tidal set and we were there – 2000nm around the UK in 2013 we sailed downwind once! Along the way we were lucky enough to see a rare sighting of an ocean sunfish – where's the camera!

Vive La France

15Jun14 Brighton to Dieppe

Sometimes you have to go where the wind takes you. Destination Fécamp became a diversion to Dieppe as the anti-cyclone over the UK kept the Northerlies blowing.

An excellent passage and everything timed as planned though while the West bound shipping lane opened up for us the East bound traffic arrived in packs of eight or more. A brief slow down to find a gap and we were soon back on track. As we approached Dieppe the NNE F6 wind made for an 'exciting entrance' – don't people pay good money to go on roller coasters! – anyway, safely in and ready for a good night's rest. Chance would be a fine thing! The scend coming in from the entrance was diabolical and reports of many a line trashed in the ensuing tidal melee as boats and pontoons danced wildly in the surge.

As we planned our escape from the cramped finger berths a flotilla of seventeen Dutch motor cruisers arrived grabbing any available space and thus preventing any hope of moving on. Fortunately, one of the nearby yachts managed to find her way out the next morning and so we pounced on the opportunity to escape – finally enroute to Fécamp; the mixed up and breaking sea at the entrance was a relief after the virtual washing machine of the marina.

Être en France est mieux de ne pas être en France – même si c'est Dieppe…

Humbled

05Jun14 Gosport

With a short passage to Gosport to replace our life raft – after it was condemned through old age – we zig-zagged our way in between the gathering of multi-national Naval vessels preparing for the D-Day commemorations.

Stepping off onto the pontoon upon our arrival we were greeted by a familiar sight: The Red Arrows were beginning their display for the crowds gathered prior to the events in Normandy. A spectacular greeting on such a fine day but we were well aware of the real reason for their presence and were humble in thought.

Saturday, May 31, 2014

One thing leads to another…

31May14

Just when you think you have it all prepared something always seems to crop up. After dealing with a last-minute seacock replacement on the day of launch we had to deal with what had originally appeared to be just a minor 'sweat' leak in the engine's cooling system – a corroded cooling pipe had cracked – this resulted in a long delay getting the correct engine part delivered…we are still in the UK, aren't we? – so, a make-do repair to allow us to move on after out-staying our welcome on the river gave us time to wait for the couriers to do their thing and an opportunity to see more of the IOW including the colourful Old Gaffers Festival in Yarmouth.

Next we will make our way along the south coast finishing off some minor jobs and search for a new life raft while we dream about easier times.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Good Call

"However, our decision to stay was coloured by multiple comments of serious exposure to Winter storms, so when the recent spell of fair weather arrived we jumped at the chance to head a little further east…"

These are words from the end of last year's Blog – sometimes decisions are made for you and sometimes it is only with hindsight you know you made the right choice; the picture taken at Portland on that post is the exact spot where the beach was ripped apart by this year's Winter storms and Arbalest would have been exposed to it all just a few hundred metres to the East! Yarmouth has been a good resting place for the Winter and thanks to all the guys at The River Yar Boatyard for all their work and assistance during our lay-up.

Currently, as one of our sister boats [Adamastor] prepares for a weather window to head across the South Pacific and our Canadian aquaintances Larry & Mary Anne [TraversayIII] prepare for a North Pacific circuit, we have more modest plans for 2014.

After some essential, though cosmetic, structural work our plans are to head South starting in Northern France, along the coast via The Channel Islands, around the Brest Peninsula and then see where the mood takes us. We're in no rush but hopefully we will see some sunshine this year along with some much-missed warmth! This year is going to be very different.