Tuesday, September 23, 2014

A chill in the air


23Sep14:
Following a brief sorti back to La Rochelle to visit Le Grand Pavois (boat show) -- which was not a touch on Southampton or London despite being billed as something special -- we are now back in St Denis where we shall Winter leaving the delights of Southern Biscay for next season. 

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Denis Denis


We had to plan our 'escape' from Les Minimes not only to have enough water but also to avoid the 4kt cross current steaming across our berth. It would be a short hop across to St Denis d'Oléron but we had to there before nightfall and also to allow enough water to make it over the sand bar which dried 1.5m above CD.


Enroute we managed to catch a Garfish, which we returned, and Mackerel for our supper.

We were fortunate to be met by the HM just before he finished for the day as there was a Rally taking up all the Visitor berths. He showed us to a place on Pontoon K where we had 2.7m at low water -- sorted. 

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

When's Low Water?

10Sep14:
Extreme Springs can bring very low tides.


This is one of the new boats being prepared for the boat show -- hope it's not yours!

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Hoping for a soft bottom

09Sep14:
The temperature is now more bearable with a light breeze. Our appointed berth on the Visitor's pontoon adjacent to the Capitanerie has proved more of a problem.

We were informed on arrival this was the only place we could go as space was severely restricted by the forthcoming boat show -- raft if you have to. We duly rafted and the next day acquired the adjacent pontoon berth. Port Minimes has recently been expanded and now has well over 4000 moorings. What we hadn't considered was the lack of depth in such a huge enterprise! Our Visitor pontoon had a least depth (cd) of a mere 0.8m. This is not usually such a problem with tide on top but at the same time as an approaching monster of a Spring tide, a mere 0.2m at Low water, we had a problem.

Fortunately, we pleaded our case and we were allowed to move to a slightly deeper berth on the North side of the entrance -- amazing that these berths were previously unavailable! Tonight we await low water which will equate to around 1.6m -- we will still be sitting on the bottom in a foot of mud for a short while but it could be worse. Last night a local 40 footer ran aground on the approach to his berth just across from us, a night later and he could well have toppled over.

No stress here! 

Sunday, September 7, 2014

La Rochelle

07Sep14: Little wind, 29 degrees in the shade...again. A few hours later and it's 31

Saturday, September 6, 2014

High Pressure


La Rochelle: 29 degrees C. 

Under the Bridge

We decided to leave le très chic of St Martin and make way for La Rochelle: thankfully, a short hop as the wind was less than 1kt and everything flat calm in the baking heat of midday. As we passed under the connecting bridge to the island a sigh of relief -- it doesn't matter how much clearance you have (there was plenty) there's always a slight doubt lurking!


As yet not sure if it was a good decision to leave as La Rochelle was limited in mooring space due to the imminent boat show and we still ended up rafting!

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Phasers to maximum

Despite being ultra cautious, despite the application of the mozzie screens, there's always one. After multiple checks, the 'one' must have been deploying her Klingon cloaking device prior to her feeding frenzy as we certainly suffered in the morning.

Soon forgotten, we had one of our best sails so far down to Île de Ré and into St Martin: full main, genoa and staysail the wind pretty much maintained direction and remained just under reefing territory.


Around the Port can be found the largest array of C17-C18 architecture we have seen concentrated in one place without a MacDonald's or the like cropping up to spoil the ambience.


However, there always seems to be a however, it is a very 'chic' place to visit and countless clothes shops and restaurants adorn the frontage and if is a very popular place to visit despite the official 'high season' being over. We had planned to stay but being rafted 3-deep we will probably head off to La Rochelle tomorrow where things are 'supposed' to be busy and commercial. 




Wednesday, September 3, 2014

The Vendée

31Aug14: Les Sables d'Olonne

A light breeze: down wind, wing-and-wing with a full cruising chute we arrived at the home of the Vendée Globe; site of triumphant scenes of celebration; a splendid beach and a still-thriving maritime tradition. However, staying here has had its price. Each night has been a mozzie hunt and despite apparent success, by the morning, there has been painful evidence to the contrary – lets hope it's the location and not a sign of things to come!?

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Tuna Town

28Aug14: Port Joinville, Île d'Yeu

Upon arrival we called the HM and we squeezed onto our designated finger pontoon, all 6m of it – later we realised there was plenty of space elsewhere and it would have been cheaper too – apparently, the previous week had been manic and there was no room to swing a chat.

Once again a very popular location for locals to spend their leisure time and they all seem to ride a hired bicycle. The island has a definite Mediterranean feel along with isolated beaches and magnificent cliff-side walks. Here we sampled the local tuna for which the island is famous.

Teach a man to fish…

24Aug14: Pornic

This a very pleasant place to stay and the locals are very friendly – one particular resident decided he would teach us how to fish after taking us out to buy all the right gear to catch anything from baitfish to huge tuna!

The marina is not very popular with visitors as some of the facilities are tired though they still manage to charge Peak rates – it's a little off the main path heading South and there's little room for boats over 10m except for the hammerheads – despite this we enjoyed our stay and would definitely go back.

Noticeably, Pornic is just South of The Loire and here there is a distinct change from the black, slate-like roof tiles to sandy, scalloped pan-tiles.

One to miss.

23Aug14: Pornichet

A stopover. Otherwise don't bother.

Local produce

21Aug14: Piriac sur Mer

Another short passage Piriac is an old Medieval town though now a popular tourist spot. Entry is over a cill but the digital readout confirms depth of water available – just allow a bit more for the drying approach.

So far we have enjoyed the local produce: cheese, wine, crêpes, gateaux, etc. Bretagne had one more surprise for us: a salad including some local saucisson made from various bits and pieces of offal which, to put it politely, smelt like it shouldn't be put anywhere near a plate! Piriac will not be forgotten easily.

Blue water sailing

20Aug14: Île Houat

Another short hop with a stretch of settled weather we headed for the main anchorage in the SE bay. We knew it would be crowded and it was with well over 100 boats of all types but all managing to find enough swinging room to be comfortable.

A beautiful, shallow and sandy bay with blue water more akin to the Caribbean. A quick row ashore to visit a spectacular beach and wonderful walking. We would have stayed longer but the holding was not brilliant and with a wind shift towards shore we thought it best to leave to perhaps return another day.

The ultimate Summer destination for some

19Aug14: Golfe du Morbihan

In the heart of Quiberon Bay the Golfe du Morbihan can be seen as a pilgrimage for visiting Summer boats. Despite the swift and powerful currents it is used as a playground by the locals and visitors alike. Once again, a very popular destination in season for all types of holiday-goers.

We zig-zagged our way in avoiding boats coming from all directions including the busy vedettes and made way for Port Blanc. There, we picked up one of the white mooring buoys just out of the main stream. There was no charge for our overnight stay and no charge for the HM water taxi – something we could learn back home where it can be £2 per person per trip to travel 50m! The French get the punters in to spend their money, we on the other hand make it too expensive to even consider a trip out in the first place.

Quiberon Bay

15Aug14: La Trinité sur Mer

Rafted on the end of a pontoon exposed to the incoming swell we made the short hop to La Trinité home to some of France's greatest yachtsmen.

Roller Coaster

13Aug14: Sauzon to Port Haliguen

Sauzon, a beautiful place but visit out of season. We had to escape at the earliest opportunity. The next morning we headed for the Quiberon peninsula through the Teignhouse passage. This passage is over a shallow reef, clearly buoyed but not to be attempted in wind-over-tide conditions. We timed our approach for slack water and then dealt with the F6 Westerly which which was taking us across. Exciting. Surfing down a short, steep 6m swell Arbalest took it in her stride unlike some boats designed more for day sailing.

Once again the port was extremely busy with boats queuing and circling before being directed to raft in every available space.

Avoiding the crowds!?

12Aug14: Loctudy to Sauzon at Belle Île

July and August is very expensive in this area but Loctudy offered an excellent rate for a weeks's stay – all we had to do was squeeze our way out from the tiny gap between opposing finger pontoons! Fortunately, the lack of early morning wind was following form and we slipped out without incident. On a different and slightly more bizarre and diverse subject a line can be drawn here in our progress South marking the start of mixed ablutions!?

Wind strength gradually built giving us a lively sail to the island. Upon arrival, anchoring was not an option and the alternative choice of a mooring buoy in the height of the season, a challenge. We were lead by the HM between masses of charter boats and locals threading a narrow, weaving line until we picked up for and aft mooring buoys already occupied by six other boats – sometimes idyllic island spots can be a bit too popular!

Sauveteurs

04Aug14 St Evette to Loctudy

Our stay in St Evette coincided with the local SNSM (RNLI) having a very well attended fund-raising event: lots of local food and drink; model life boats; a display of swimming rescue dogs; helicopter exercises; and above all great weather.

However, time to move on and we set course for Loctudy. Here we sat out the remnants of Hurricane Bertha giving us time to sample the excellent langoustine and explore the area including Quimper then an enlightening visit to Guilvinec and the fish auction.