A new horizon

Delaying our departure was a wise decision after reports of dense fog enroute were reported by fellow travellers on Boozeroo -- there has been a lot of mist along our route so far and it denies us views of the coastline we have come to see. Destination The Orkneys we cast off at around 08.15 and made excellent progress towards Duncansby Head (John-O'Groats). The harbour master advised us to hug the coast for the end of the south-going stream and then head over the notorious Pentland Firth at HW+1 Dover at slack water: perfect. The wind wasn't strong enough to sail safely so we motored across -- a good decision as the wind fell off half way across. Approaching the Pentland Skerries spectacular views opened up of the islands and the promise of exploration.

Duncansby Head

South Ronaldsay greeted us with a favourable wind for rounding Copinsay and with a reef in the main we pushed through the building swell. However, when we changed tack to make course for rounding Deerness the wind eased and we couldn't get enough drive to power through the swell conditions which had the occasional 3m and 4m sets. Our faithful engine came to our aid again to keep us away from a lee shore as the prospect of sailing away on the previous tack, though a credible alternative, would have taken us away from our destination by quite a way. Our intentions of anchoring in Deer Sound were now being threatened by the established swell direction; we decided to have look and although the anchorage was tenable if we needed it a comfortable night was not on the cards so we reluctantly made course for Kirkwall. The bain of our previous course [the swell] now pushed us against a strong, neap tide through the Shapinsay Sound and we managed to make reasonable progress through The String and finally into the capital of the islands, Kirkwall.

The Islands are quite different in their topography from what we have seen so far: craggy in places, devoid of trees, dramatic in evening light yet somehow soft in appearance on this eastern side; bays with settlements and ancient, castle-like retreats, a thousand books could be written.